The second half of my christmas break I traveled down to Mexico to enjoy some climbing time. The adventures started when the whole gang piled into my brothers prius and headed for the border. Packed into my brothers tiny little car, Tim, Nathan, Nathan 2, my brother and my self began the drive at 11 P.M. It wasn't untill 1 in the morning that we finally made the boarder. Expecting a thorough inspection, we were surprised, to say the least, by the guard who merely waved us through.
Entering a foreign country without showing your passport, or being questioned in any way seemed, in reflection, a little funny...
Any way, we got in on new years eve day, tired we joined the hoards of people cragging, with most routes heavily lined we found some respite at the wave wall. Tired from the drive there was little motivation for climbing hard. The highlight of the morning was waking up below the front wall and the amazing thousand-foot tall limestone cliffs. Despite only 3 hours of sleep on a popped thermarest we were all still very excited. That night rumors of various parties floated around the camp until one officially opened up near the park entrance. We summoned our last energy to go up and ring in the new year. We watched drunks stumble through the bonfire until we counted the last 10 seconds down. Then a unamimous vote to get some sleep sent us to our sleeping bags.
The next day my brother and i climbled light so that we could get on the famous Time Wave Zero route without fighting through crowds. Zach's feet were soar from the tight climbing shoes so he climbed most of the route in approach shoes that he bought in the 8th grade. He is 25 now so the only thing his shoes should be approaching is becoming soil. It was chilly and we climbed in down jackets, alternating a second layer to the belayer as we linked through pitches. On the 18th pitch the sun rose. we watched the sun's heat chase away the few clouds that had settled into the valley, and the amazing landscape appear from the darkness. It was nice finaly climbing in the light. The darkness had its advantages though too, I found the fact that I couldn't see my last clip as a confidence boost to run it out so i didn't face serious rope drag problems with full 70m pitches. At one point i skipped a bolt and then didn't clip the rope into the draw I hung on the next one (climbing durring your brains usual REM cycle does strange things) and then skipped another one, accidentally running out most of what a normal pitch would be.
The final pitch and only 5.12 on the route was true to grade and exciting for me, but proved epic for my brother. I linked the route with the easy 5.8 above it. Having around 60 meters of rope out between myself and my brother at the crux, basically destroyed any posibility of taking because of rope stretch. After 22 pitches, a pitch of 5.12 is hard, being forced to climb it clean is even harder, on the third go after yelling at me for some time, he finally stuck the moves and climbed up. I had been sitting on the ridge with my head in wind and was oblivious to the battle below. Reaching the top we ate our success chocolate bar and prepared for 23 pitches of rappel.
The next day I was soar and decided to rest. I hiked up to the Moleskey wall to be a belay slave for the day. In my flip flops, I was scrambling over a small rise, and about 8 feet off the ground i reached for a rock and high-stepped over a cactus.
The next thing I knew I was hurtling backwards through the air. My hand hold had sprung loose!
It happened pretty fast so i don't know the specifics of my arial acrobatics, but my landing was truely memorable.
Convientaly There was an enormous prickly pear cactus tree behind me! My brother described it as the size of full grown man, with ten long cactus arms.
From his account, I summersaulted in the air as I fell, and upon impact I beat the thing to smithereens! Where it once stood, there was nothing more then a stump. Stunned from the impact I sat below the slain beast, securely stapled with cactus needles to my clothes, gear, and two cactus sections, one for each butt cheek. Resembling a mangy porcupine, I exclaimed profanities to my brother. Remarkably,
half way through my statement I sild a few feet further down the hill on my cactus sled into a much shittier situation... literally. I had managed to fall over a short ledge, annihilated a cactus, ride bits of said cactus down a another slope and now as icing on the cake had landed in a pile of human shit!
Resuming my complaining from before, all I could think to say was that at least there were no needles in my hands! Laughing hysterically, he failed to reply with much more then what one hears from a dreaming dog. It had been quite some time since had taken a breath, he was laughing so hard that his face was turning colors.
I sat there unable to move because there were needles protruding from the majority of my surface area, where i was missing the unwelcomed acupuncture, there was poop speared, and one of my sandals was missing (the cactus beast had stolen it).
After finally helping me up, and picking enough needles from me that i could walk, hobble, and sulk back to camp. Picking needles from my scalp i enjoyed a ballena of beer and finished the most grueling rest day I have ever had.